Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Mmm, tastes like chicken...

I promised poultry, so let's establish the pecking order. First, we'll talk about roasting a whole bird, then we'll make indian food with chicken parts you might be more comfortable buying, and finally a great recipe for turkey burgers. I'll warn you now; it's hard to argue with the cost and flavor of one of those rotisserie chickens you can buy from your local supermarket for around five bucks. I won't try to dissuade you from a fast meal of someone else's labor if you so choose. Nanny's can raise good kids too, but where's the satisfaction in that?
Disclaimer aside, lets get to it. I love roast chicken. The presentation is pleasing, and the smell that graces your kitchen would be nearly worth it alone. As leftovers, nothing makes better soup. With regards to sandwiches your chicken has a far more honest quality about it than packaged, processed cold-cuts from whichever plant keeps their Salmonella counts down long enough to ship product. This isn't meant to be the definitive procedure on chicken roasting; more my collection of finer points and variations from the sheer tonnage of information available in cookbooks and on the web. Here are some things I do that many others don't:


Brine your bird.
Chickens these days are grown fast, and for looks. Flavor is a secondary characteristic. The easiest way to serve a flavorful bird involves soaking it in a brine before roasting. Bring two quarts (2L) of water or stock to a simmer in a stock pot. Add a cup of kosher salt and a cup of brown sugar, stirring until dissolved. I'll also add a few dozen peppercorns, a couple of whole cloves, and some dried thyme. When the salt and sugar are dissolved, remove the pot from the heat and add enough ice to double the volume. I usually roast chicken in cold weather, so I just take the covered pan to the porch overnight. The brine needs to be below 40°F before the bird goes for a swim, so I usually make my brine the day before. When the brine is chilled, submerge the chicken for at least six hours. (remove the gibbets first, of course)
Pre-flight checklist 
Preheat your oven to 450°F Take the bird from the brine and dry it inside and out with paper towels. I almost never touch a cloth towel when cooking poultry. The risk for cross-contamination is too high, so just plan on using a roll of paper towel for the whole preperation. Quarter and core an apple (I like Fuji for chicken) and process into 1/2” slices, no need to peel. Slice a sweet yellow onion and create a 1:1 mix of apples and onions in a bowl. Add a sprig of rosemary and a pinch of kosher salt; stir to combine. Microwave the mix for a minute or two; this preheats the aromatics and helps the flavors blend. Stuff the cavity with your mixture, but don't pack it in there. Doing so will lengthen cooking time. You can truss your bird, or let the legs hang loose (more crispy skin!). In a small bowl, combine 1T oil, 1t paprika, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Rub the oily mess all over the bird. This makes for great color and adds nice flavor to the skin.

before/after
Roast on a rack for 30 minutes, then drop the heat to 375°F until the internal temperature reaches 170°F in the thigh, and the legs move freely in their sockets. Remove from the oven and cover with foil. Allow the bird to rest for at least 20 minutes before you carve. This allows the meat to hold on to it's moisture; it's also a great time to mash potatoes and make gravy from everything in the roasting pan. I'll show you how to carve the bird when we talk turkey; for now rip it apart with your bare hands. Alternately, AB will show you how here.
mashed potatoes, sauteed kale, and orange-cranberry relish



Eastern cuisine


Chicken is easy to cook with, and readily available in a few forms. I buy frozen breasts when they’re on sale, the big bag keeps well and offers lots of quick dinner options. When buying fresh, I love boneless, skinless thighs. Being dark meat they have more flavor than breasts, and I use them in many different cuisines. Either can be used in this simple Indian recipe for chicken tikka masala for 2.



Lightly salt and pepper your chicken pieces. Add them to a zip-top bag with 1T of your favorite marinade and refrigerate for an hour. (I've got my own marinade in the works, but this is a simple dinner.) Preheat your cast iron skillet over medium-high heat, about five minutes. Add a little oil and turn the pan to coat the bottom. Add the chicken pieces to the pan and brown on both sides, about 10 minutes total. While the chicken is browning, whisk together 5-10 oz. of coconut milk and 1T of the marinade in a bowl. Pour the liquid over the browned chicken (you should have enough to 2/3 cover the chicken)  Cover the pan and finish this in the oven or on the stove from here. Quick note: when braising chicken, you're waiting for the moment that it all falls apart and can be shredded with a fork like BBQ. About five minutes before you get there, you'll be cursing the rubbery hunks of chicken swimming in a pool of bubbling sauce, thinking they will never come apart. Fear not; it's just a matter of time. When you reach the shredding point, kill the heat, uncover, and go to work with two forks or a potato masher. When you break the meat down a bit, stir to coat the newly exposed meat to the sauce; everything will thicken as it cools. Serve with rice, raita, and naan

Two-legged burgers

Not too long ago, I changed my perspective on turkey burgers. As a midwesterner, burgers are beef, period. Always trying to expand my horizons, I bought a pound of ground turkey; I was surprised to see that it's less expensive than beef. A quick note on ground meat: you'll see a ratio on the package; usually somewhere between 93/7 (lean) and 75/25. (fatty) This is the ratio of lean meat to fat, and different grinds have different uses. For beef and turkey burgers, I like 85/15. Any leaner and your burgers can be too dry, especially as turkey requires cooking until well done. To combat this, I prepare mine in the spirit of mini-meatloaf by adding some moisture and flavor in the form of apples and onions. I really like the way these two items compliment poultry so you'll see them used often.


My recipe is pretty basic. Send a half an apple, a half an onion and a clove of garlic for a spin in the food processor with a pinch of salt and pepper until you have relish sized chunks. If you're boning up on your knife work, you'll be mincing. Next render a few pieces of stale wheat bread or croutons into bread crumbs, or use store bought crumbs. You're looking for about a cup. Mix everything by hand until uniform. I form my patties in plastic wrap because four of the six I make go right into the freezer. Cook your patties over medium heat. I like cast iron, but a good nonstick pan will work fine. They can be grilled but do note they stick easier than beef. Keep an eye on these as they brown much faster than beef due to the caramelization of the onions. When they're almost done, kill the heat and cover. As they coast across the finish line, make yourself a salad and grab a cold one.  Top any way you please; I like cranberry relish if I'm lucky enough to have some in the fridge.



3 comments:

  1. that better be a drumstick in my thigh!
    good read - now I'm hungry

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  2. It took me a minute to get the humor in the "hot tub" photo! I'd never heard about brining before last Thanksgiving (on one of the morning TV shows), and haven't tried it yet. Does it really make that much difference in flavor?

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  3. Brining really does make a difference, more so with turkey because the bigger bird is more likely to dry out. That has everything to do with overcooking and useless basting, but we'll discuss it when we talk turkey!

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